Recycled vs Virgin Materials: A Designer’s Perspective
The Recycling Question
Understanding the tradeoffs behind recycled and virgin technical fabrics.
Why FARA Currently Uses Virgin Nylon
Sustainability is one of the most complex topics in modern product design.
If you spend time researching materials, you will quickly discover that the conversation around recycled versus virgin materials is far from simple. Recycling advocates often point out that recycled fibers have a lower carbon footprint and require less water than producing virgin materials. At a high level, that is often true. Producing new polymers requires energy, and energy production carries environmental costs.
But once you look more closely, the picture becomes less clear.
The true impact of recycled materials depends on many variables. Where was the recycling process performed? What energy sources power the facility? How far did the raw materials travel before they were processed? And how transparent is the manufacturer about their environmental practices?
And importantly, does the product made from recycled materials outlast the product made from non-recycled materials?
These questions matter more than most marketing claims suggest.
The Recycling Ecosystem
Today, much of the recycling infrastructure for technical textiles lives in Asia, particularly China. That does not automatically make it problematic, but transparency can be limited. Many facilities do not publish detailed information about energy sources, processing methods, or emissions. Some also choose not to participate in third-party certification systems such as Bluesign®, which are designed to track chemical management, water use, and environmental impact across the supply chain.
Without that transparency, it becomes difficult to measure the real environmental benefit of the recycled material.
Polyester recycling is somewhat easier to understand. Recycled polyester is often produced from post-consumer PET bottles, which are widely available and relatively straightforward to process. According to organizations such as the Textile Exchange, recycled polyester can reduce energy use and greenhouse gas emissions compared to virgin polyester production when managed properly.¹
However, polyester has its own limitations.
Strength Matters
Polyester is simply not as strong as nylon.
In technical textiles, nylon fibers generally offer higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance than polyester fibers.² This is one of the reasons nylon has long been the preferred material for high-performance outdoor gear, climbing equipment, and military applications.
When recycled fibers enter the equation, the difference becomes even more pronounced.
Recycled nylon can lose mechanical strength during the recycling process, depending on how the polymer chains are broken down and rebuilt.³ Recycled polyester tends to be weaker still when compared to high-tenacity nylon fabrics used in performance gear.
In practical terms, this means many bags made from recycled PET polyester simply do not last as long.
Durability may not always be discussed as a sustainability metric, but it should be. A product that lasts ten or twenty years prevents far more waste than one that needs to be replaced after two or three.
Longevity as Sustainability
At FARA, we believe longevity is one of the most powerful forms of sustainability.
If a bag is built with exceptional materials and thoughtful construction, it can stay in service for decades. That means fewer replacements, fewer discarded products, and less overall consumption.
This is why we focused not just on the base fabric, but on the entire material system.
Our proprietary AEROSHELL fabric is built as a four-layer construction, with each layer playing a specific role in durability and performance.
At the surface, a Soil and Oil Water Repellent treatment acts as the first line of defense. This ultra-thin layer helps prevent moisture, dirt, and oils from wetting out the fabric, keeping the surface cleaner and reducing long-term contamination.
Beneath that, a pigmented carbonate coating forms a durable outer shell. This layer adds structure, increases abrasion resistance, and provides the depth and richness of color while helping the fabric maintain its appearance over time.
The core of the material is a high-tenacity nylon weave. This is where the strength lives. We use nylon 630, 840, and 1260 depending on the application, each selected for its ability to handle load, resist tearing, and perform under real-world use.
On the back side, a thin polyurethane layer adds an additional barrier against moisture and helps bind the construction into a stable, unified system.
Each layer is simple on its own. Together, they create a fabric that is durable, weather-resistant, and built to hold up over time.
Our goal was not just to choose strong materials, but to build a system that performs consistently, year after year.
Because the longer a product lasts, the less often it needs to be replaced.
The Future of Recycled Materials
None of this means we are dismissing recycled materials. In fact, we are actively exploring new developments in this space.
One promising direction comes from a supplier in South Korea that operates under transparent manufacturing standards and participates in Bluesign certification programs. They are producing recycled polyester fabrics with advanced waterproof carbonate coatings that significantly improve durability.
Early results are encouraging. While these materials may not yet match the raw strength of high-tenacity nylon, they are closing the gap.
We are continuing to evaluate this technology and other emerging materials. If we find a recycled textile that meets our standards for durability, transparency, and long-term performance, we would be excited to incorporate it.
Designing for the Long Journey
Sustainability is rarely a simple yes-or-no decision. It involves tradeoffs, imperfect information, and constant reevaluation as technology evolves.
For now, our approach is straightforward.
We choose materials that allow our products to last as long as possible.
Because the most sustainable bag is often the one you never need to replace.
Guided by the Feather.
References
- Textile Exchange. Preferred Fiber and Materials Market Report.
- Kadolph, Sara. Textiles, Pearson Education.
- Ellen MacArthur Foundation. A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning Fashion’s Future.